Puzzled by what to drink this holiday with your Sagaponack potato latkes or your Shinnecock oysters on the half shell? Look no further: An all-star cast assembled by our food columnist, Laura Donnelly, chose the very best of the East End’s wines in a blind taste test.

Champagne Wishes

The holidays are bubbly season, and Long Island winemakers give us every reason to drink their sparkling wines. They really are delicious and reasonably priced. Look for some of these North and South Fork sparklers.

400 Acres

Looking north at a certain angle from the cluster of barns at the corner of Cooks Lane and Scuttlehole Road, the stretch of cultivated fields offers a glimpse into another era, when eastern Long Island was a promising new frontier for farmers squeezed off their acreage farther west on the Island by the forward march of development.

Mr. Cool

Thirty-five years in the restaurant business have honed David Loewenberg’s instincts. But he’s also got a preternatural calm that stands out in a high-intensity industry known for its nerve-fraying chaos and amped-up kitchen staff.

Sweet Revenge

The saga of the rise and fall and rise again of the woman behind Tate’s Cookie’s, Kathleen King, borders on Shakespearean. At the very least, King laughingly says, it could be a “made for TV movie.” Laura Donnelly reports.

A Higher Sour

“Kraut Kween” Nadia Ernestus of Hamptons Brine makes wholesome and probiotic kvass and sauerkraut that have become so popular she could found a business empire. Instead, she’s keeping it humble.

On Fire

Bored with your basic barbecue? Consider un Asado, estilo Argentino. Laura Donnelly digs in to tenderly grilled beef and open-fire-roasted lamb. Pass the chimichurri sauce

400 Acres

With its open vistas of brown furrows, then low green plants dotted with white flowers running in parallel lines to the horizon, Bridgehampton used to be famous not for movie stars and mansions, but for potatoes. Today, the Wesnofske clan holds on against all odds: a squeeze on farmable land, the increasing difficulty of getting to market, and the deeper question of who will carry on.

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