Puzzled by what to drink this holiday with your Sagaponack potato latkes or your Shinnecock oysters on the half shell? Look no further: An all-star cast assembled by our food columnist, Laura Donnelly, chose the very best of the East End’s wines in a blind taste test.

Champagne Wishes

The holidays are bubbly season, and Long Island winemakers give us every reason to drink their sparkling wines. They really are delicious and reasonably priced. Look for some of these North and South Fork sparklers.

400 Acres

Looking north at a certain angle from the cluster of barns at the corner of Cooks Lane and Scuttlehole Road, the stretch of cultivated fields offers a glimpse into another era, when eastern Long Island was a promising new frontier for farmers squeezed off their acreage farther west on the Island by the forward march of development.

Mr. Cool

Thirty-five years in the restaurant business have honed David Loewenberg’s instincts. But he’s also got a preternatural calm that stands out in a high-intensity industry known for its nerve-fraying chaos and amped-up kitchen staff.

On Fire

Bored with your basic barbecue? Consider un Asado, estilo Argentino. Laura Donnelly digs in to tenderly grilled beef and open-fire-roasted lamb. Pass the chimichurri sauce